Happy Easter folks!
On with the final week and a bit of my trip…..
Another of the things I really wanted to do in South Africa was a tour along the Garden Route (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garden_Route) I had a particularly rigid time frame as I wanted to be in Port Elizabeth on Friday, My luck was in as the first tour company I approached offered a 5 day tour starting in Cape Town on a Monday and ending on Friday afternoon at a location of my choice in Port Elizabeth – Bingo!
It was an early start on Monday morning, March 2nd, and I was picked up by the tour bus from my hotel at 07.30, I was greeted by the tour guide, Stephanie, and boarded the bus, We carried on around Cape Town for a while picking up the other travellers before commencing the tour. It was a small group of just 5 solo travellers, Nancy from the US, Susanne & Marc from Germany and Elkana from Holland, I had a image of being trapped on a bus with a load of strange people for a week but it was quite the opposite, I couldn’t have asked for 5 nicer people to spend a week with!
Our first port of call after a beautiful drive along the coast was Betties Bay, home to a colony of African Penguins. We had just over an hour here to wonder around the colony and despite being exceptionally windy it was great fun watching these birds go about the lives – If I was ever to get a pet I think I’d get myself a Penguin, they’re just so cool!
Back on the bus and off to the town of Hermanus for a break of around 2 1/2 hours where we were free to explore the town and grab some lunch – I don’t think anybody had eaten breakfast so we all piled into the nearest restaurant which was recommended to us by Stephanie, it was an excellent choice and the food was divine. After lunch had been washed down we set off for a quick wonder round town. It’s a lovely little place and had a bit of a Mediterranean feel to it with its white buildings, there’s a pretty little market place and a main street with all your usual sort of shops and not forgetting a gorgeous sea front.
Our next port of call was Cape Agulhas where we would spend the night. Before checking in we went off down to the sea front and to visit the most southern tip of Africa where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet, stood here I was as far south as I was almost 2 months ago in Sydney! It’s only when you look at a map you realise just how far away South Africa is.
Back at the backpackers where we were staying there was plenty of time for a freshen up before dinner. Being a backpackers I wasn’t expecting too much but I was pleasantly surprised, the place was huge and offered a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets and is set in lovely grounds. I joined the others back at the bar prior to dinner and was befriended by the Parrot who lived there, I can’t remember her name now although I’m sure somebody will remind me, but she was quite happy to sit on my shoulder for a large part of the evening – I had made yet another new friend!! Dinner was locally caught Yellowtail and it was just so yummy they haven’t invented a word to describe it yet! A few drinks were had after dinner before we all crashed out for the evening.
Tuesday was another early start, breakfast was at 7 and we were all ready to go just after half past, I bid farewell to my little Parrot friend who was most upset and we headed off for a lengthy drive via Route 62 to Outdshoorn where we would spend a large part of the day. Our first activity of the day was some wine tasting before tucking into lunch, I’m no great wine buff but it all tasted alright to me! Next up was a visit to the Cango Caves, there were two types of tour on offer, a basic 45 minute tour or a longer, more ambitious adventure – I wasn’t ever going to fit into some of the gaps so opted for the basic tour! The caves were spectacular with their stalagmites and stalactites dating back thousands of years, most are tastefully lit by modern lighting which allows you to get some pretty cool photos. They used to hold concerts down here many years ago but they were stopped after visitors kept breaking off the Stalagmites for souvenirs, they take hundreds of thousands of years to form only for some twat to ruin – unbelievable.
Our final activity of the day was a visit to an Ostrich Farm, thankfully it was mainly in the shade as the heat outside was over 40 degrees. After a brief introduction in to the many uses of Ostrich meat and their eggs and feathers it was out to see them in the flesh. We first had an opportunity to feed one, you get given some pellets and simply hold your hand out flat and they just peck away until it’s all gone, a handful of food makes you an instant friend! You next get to have a cuddle with an Ostrich – You go into the enclosure and put your arm round it whilst the guide has a bucket of feed which she tempts the Ostrich with in a way that it ends up with its long neck wrapped right around you! If a cuddle wasn’t enough you then get to try an Ostrich massage, in for a penny in for a pound right?! It’s not quite as odd as it sounds… honest! You are given a bucket of feed which you hold at waist level and walk backwards towards a waiting pack of Ostrich’s, when you get to the fence they all lean their necks right over your shoulders to get at the feed so you get a load of them all rubbing their necks right over the top half of your body, all pretty cool really! Last but not least you get to have a look at some eggs which are bloody huge and pretty durable, to test this out you can sit or stand on some, they took my weight which demonstrates their strength. We then got to see how they look after freshly laid eggs, they are kept in incubators which looked like your average family oven until they are ready to hatch. I loved it here, best bit of the day for me!
After bidding farewell to all our new friends it was off to our backpackers for the evening which was just a short drive away, again this was a lovely place to spend the evening, dinner that night was Ostrich would you believe!! It had been a long, busy, hot day so it was soon time to crash out for the evening – another early one in the morning.
Wednesday and another 7am breakfast to kick off with before setting off once again at half past. The day started with a long drive to the Wilderness National Park which took us through the spectacular Outeniqua Mountain Pass briefly stopping off in the outskirts of George to pick up a picnic lunch for later. The main activity of the day was some canoeing – I don’t swim so had my reservations about this but threw caution the wind and went for it anyway! My vision of a canoe was somewhat different to theirs and it was more of a small rowing boat to be honest so didn’t look to bad after all. We split into pairs, Susanne made the bad decision of coming with me and with British rowing’s reputation at stake we set off – move of Steve Redgrave!
Thankfully neither myself or Susanne had done this before so the pressure was off a little albeit not for long as the others set off at quite a pace and we were soon quite a way back, feeling the need to catch up we went for it but all went a little wrong after a very near miss with a bridge! It was pretty close and I’m sure a collision would have resulted in a watery grave for us both but we missed it, sadly that couldn’t be said for the embankment which we duly ploughed in to! The rest of the outward trip went without incident. Our destination was a small beach about 40 minutes down river where we left the canoes and set off by foot for a hike of about 2 kilometres to our picnic destination which was a lovely little waterfall and rock pool, My fear of heights got the better of me at the end so I didn’t make the final climb to the rock pool but my waterfall view was more than ample for a rest!
After lunch it was off back to the canoes for the row back up stream which is where the fun began! Getting back in the boat I was a little concerned to see that it had a considerable amount of water in it, bailed it all out with the cup provided and we set off, we were going well having cracked this rowing game until almost decapitating ourselves at the small rope bridge which you have to lift up before going under it, it was at this point I discovered a leak in the boat, water was coming in at a reasonable pace so I bailed a bit more of it out! The next problem came when the water in the boat prevented it from turning right particularly easily, this was a bit of an issue as the river mainly went to the right so the next encounter with the embankment wasn’t far away! I say embankment but they weren’t the sort you where you could easily get out and give up, they were covered with thick reeds and dense trees! With the boat slowly filling up with water and not wanting to turn right at all the encounters with the riverbanks became very frequent, one in particular we hit at quite a speed and disappeared a good few feet into the reeds which didn’t please the wildlife living within! After somehow getting out of the latest in a long line of accidents we continued the row back toward dry land. Of course had the two of us been able to stop laughing it might of aided our efforts to make dry land, a few more crashes and we had the end in sight although this wasn’t going to be as easy as it looked as it was on the right-hand side of the river! Things didn’t really go to plan as we went past where we were aiming for so did a sharp left, you’ve guessed it, right into some more riverside foliage! Somehow we made it back to the right side of the river much to the amusement of the other 4 who had been back for ages! Dry land at last but not without one last incident — Susanne, in her break for land, took a little tumble out of the boat which just about finished me off as I was laughing so hard!
With an uncontrollable bout of giggles we all piled back in the bus and headed off to our next port of call, the town of Knysna for an afternoon break. Kynsna is a lovely little town on the side of a lagoon with views to die for. It had become a little chilly so we all decided a warm drink was in order and took to a local coffee bar for a rest, Myself and Susanne had almost stopped laughing by now! Suitably refreshed we got back in the bus for the drive up to Knysna Heads which offers views back down over the town and across the lagoon to Leisure Island. After this is was onto out backpacker for the evening in a place called Wilderness. Had some time to kill before dinner so we all wandered off down to the beach where a pod of Dolphins were playing just out to sea. Dinner this evening was a Braai, that’s a Barbie to you and I, and it was pretty awesome, meat everywhere you looked! Washed that down with a few beers which only set me off laughing again as we recalled the day’s events!
Thursday was an even earlier start with a half 6 breakfast, I recall having a slight headache which I’m sure had nothing to do with sitting in the bar till god knows when! In the bus for 7 and off for another longish drive east for our first stop of the day, the Bloukrans Bridge bungee jumping! Fear not readers, there was no way I was throwing myself off the bridge! I did however have a wonder out to the edge with Marc & Susanne, Mark was going over and Susanne was thinking about it. The others stayed put at the top and watched on the big screens that show all the jumps. It was quite cool out on the bridge, they have a DJ spinning some tunes and it’s more like a night club than anything else. Marc got himself kitted up and before you knew it he had gone over the side with a blood curdling scream – I was like ‘Holy Shit’, watching somebody fly off a bridge makes you stand still and think I can tell you! The whole thing took about 2 minutes and before we knew it Marc was back. In those two minutes I had been trying to talk Susanne in to jumping and she decided to go for it – I felt a bit bad about that as I was like ‘yeah, do it, jump’ whilst having no intentions of doing it myself. Anyway, over the side she went in deadly silence! Both of them said it was a fantastic experience and were glad they did it. Back at the top they both bought videos and photos of the jump, something you have to do, after all, it is the highest bungee jump in the world!
After a quick drink it was off once again, I should mention that the Bloukrans Bridge marks the border between the Eastern and Western Capes and it was further into the Eastern Cape we went to Tsitsikamma and the National Park there for the afternoons activities. On the drive into the Park we encountered a number of Bush Bucks, the best way of describing them is Bambi! Rather sweet looking little Dears. In the Park we all decided to go on a bit of a hike down towards the Suspension Bridges which cross the mouth of the Storms River, Sadly the biggest one was closed for repairs but we got the other 2 in before a well-earned lunch.
The afternoon was another lengthy drive towards our digs for the evening with a brief stop in Uitenhage for some drinks for the evening and some provisions for the morning. Our accommodation was quite superb tonight being located on a Citrus Farm just outside Addo, it really was in the middle of nowhere but was just an idyllic place to stay. In the time before dinner most of us went off to explore the vast grounds. Dinner was in the main house and cooked by the owner and his family, we were treated to Bobotye served with rice and fresh vegetables – This was simply superb, up there with the tastiest meals ever! This was to be my last night with the guys so a few drinks were in order, Stephanie spoilt us all with some wonderful red wine to go with dinner and then a couple more beers before a few of us had a little camp fire to sit around and chat away the evening under the moonlight before crashing out
Friday was the earliest start ever, the alarm went off at 3.30am and we all packed up and ready to go by 4 – the reason for such an early start was that we had a dawn game tour at the Addo Elephant Park to be on and this was leaving at 5.30. We were there in good time and took our places on the open sided truck that was going to take us round. The tour round started quite tame with not much seen and I think the game driver was getting a bit desperate to show us all stuff as we stopped to see a Hare and a Spider! As sun rose we found ourselves a few Buffalo and a Warthog or two so things were on the up and it really got going as we parked up near a watering hole when just as we were about to drive off a ruddy great Lion appeared. He had himself a little drink before taking a stroll right past out truck this was a truly amazing sight to see, as he walked past he had that ‘I’m the King here’ aurora to him. This alone had been worth getting up at half 3 for.
It didn’t stop there, as we carried on to another watering hole a huge herd of Elephants arrived and they were soon joined by another large herd, there must have been around 50-60 here now, a truly amazing sight. The Elephants were soon joined by a couple of Hyenas and a few brave Warthogs who gave the Hyenas as good as they got! After this truly amazing couple of hours we were back at the main entrance and had some breakfast – We all agreed that this had been simply fantastic, I never let on at the time but I had a tear in my eye I was that happy, it was just so cool, seeing these wonderful animals in the natural surroundings had been something I had dreamed of for years. Anyway, the wildlife spotting was far from over and after breakfast we got back in our bus and went for another drive around the park in the safe hands of ‘Ranger Steph’! One thing we hadn’t seen earlier was Zebras and we duly found plenty down by another watering hole before getting up close to a few as we drove around, I’d never seen a Zebra before so that was another cool moment. We then went back to where we had seen the Elephants earlier on to find loads of them still there – it really is fascinating to watch them, I doubt you could ever tire of doing so.
Time was pressing on and my time with the guys had all but come to end as we drove to my drop off point on the Northern outskirts of Port Elizabeth at around lunchtime, I was the only one leaving here, the rest were all doing the full 6 days return to Cape Town and had a day’s skydiving ahead of them on Saturday! I had thoroughly enjoyed the last 5 days, we had seen and done some pretty amazing stuff but it was the people on the bus which made it unforgettable, you guys were just the coolest people and it was a pleasure to meet you all and were all still in touch which is fab! Steph you were the best guide I could ever have wished for and I really must recommend everybody books their Garden Route tour when she’s driving, you’ll have the best time!
Anyway, after lots of hugs and goodbyes the next part of my South African adventure began……..
I’ll continue from there next time!
Pics to follow
Cheers
Steve